Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe. It is one of the big hitters when it comes to Iceland waterfalls and was 100% on my itinerary. One small detail I missed though was that even the road to Dettifoss is paved, it is still considered an F road. That means it doesn't get any winter service and so conditions could be literally anything. I had a slew of apps downloaded to help prepare for this trip; road conditions, weather, wind, auroras, yet the road to Dettifoss was simply marked "unknown." I am so, so grateful Jeremy is a confident and competent winter driver. As we started down this road he had full power of decision on whether or not this was a good idea. At some points it was totally clear and we weren't worried at all. At others the snow had started drifting and it was a lot more questionable. After 21km of rather questionable driving we made it to the trailhead.
One of the best sections as we drove into the unknown.
It isn't a long walk to Dettifoss, then subsequently to it's neighbor Selfoss, but the light was fading and the weather was rather uncertain. We all put on our crampons (necessary for any winter walking in Iceland), and ventured into the wilderness. We were obviously the only ones crazy enough to do this in the winter time. There was no visible trail, but there were posts with red tops that marked where the trail should be. We followed the posts. You need to understand that our family doesn't mind a little adventure. Jeremy also doesn't mind a little bit of crazy. However this was right on the edge of fun crazy and stupid crazy. If we didn't get out of there before dark, or if the road conditions deteriorated quickly before we made it out...we might not make it out. We all needed to hustle to make this work. We were definitely walking through isolated land. It was a very weird feeling.



When we reached the ravine there was a viewing platform which was nice. In better weather you can walk along the edge of the ravine, but now there were so many snow cornices it wasn't safe to do that. The waterfall was very powerful and I swear I could feel the power from across the gorge.
There was one more waterfall to check out here, but in the interest of speed we sent McKenzie and the boys back to the car, while Cambrie, Jeremy and I took the short trail to Selfoss. I just really, really hoped the kids could still see the trail markers. As we walked some of the drifting snow was so deep that we fell in up to our hips. It was feeling a little wild. Selfoss was pretty too.
I loved looking at the river right below us because it wasn't that far from freezing. Jeremy would throw snowballs into it and we could see the slushy surface cushion the landing of the snowball before it submerged.
We basically ran back to the car because it was getting dark. I think seeing a sign buried as deeply as this should have been a sign that maybe this wasn't the best idea.
Back on the road we were surprised by how much worse the road was. Wind had blown more snow onto the road and it was pretty rough getting back to the main road. There was definitely a sigh of relief as we hit the maintained road. I don't know about you, but I don't love the idea of being stranded in a car overnight on a tundra like this, even if it is beautiful in its own extreme way. The next day they closed the road for the season. That was close!


Dettifoss Memories
Jeremy: Starting on this road felt like I was possibly not
going to make it back. So for every minute of driving I worried if I could make
it back through this road again. It’s hard to mentally come back from days of
some of the hardest driving I’ve ever done.
But it was well worth it. I loved the sunset. I find it funny that two
of my favorite sunsets ever on a road led to some of the hardest driving I’ve every
done on a road.
Cambrie: Mom fell over. It did not look like Europe’s second
biggest waterfall.
Daxton: I could see a mini little house in the waterfall: a little
roof, a little chimney, and a little door.
It looked like serious entrance. It looked like a real house.
Kelton: When we were walking back, Kenzie and Daxton invited
me into the dilly-dally group. I don’t believe
it had the most waterfall coming off in Europe.
McKenzie: We thought we were going to get lost. We were following
the path and everything, but when it was getting dark the boys started going
really slow and I was afraid we weren’t going to get there in time. That’s when Kelton joined the dilly-dalliers
club. The snow was really deep and hard to walk through. But the waterfall was pretty cool.